When my friends first suggested a trip to Zanzibar, I hesitated. The idea was enticing—I instinctively agreed—but doubts soon crept in. Was it worth spending an entire year’s savings on travel? Even the night before departure, I found myself questioning my decision. But the moment I stepped off the plane and felt the warm, salty breeze of the Indian Ocean, my hesitation melted away.
My first stop was Paje, a coastal town known for its laid-back atmosphere and stunning beaches. As I wandered through its streets, I was struck by a sense of familiarity. Certain aspects of Paje reminded me of Ethiopia’s eastern towns—some corners had the dusty vibrancy of Dire Dawa, while others echoed Jijiga’s unique cultural blend. The town, like much of Zanzibar, is predominantly Muslim, with the rhythmic call to prayer echoing through the air. Swahili is the primary language, but Maasai men, draped in their distinctive red and blue shukas, add another layer to the town’s rich cultural tapestry.
Paje thrives on tourism, with hotels, guesthouses, and beachfront lodges shaping its skyline. Many of these accommodations are crafted from wood, their rustic yet elegant designs blending seamlessly with the coastal landscape. Most buildings are modest in height, rarely exceeding two stories, preserving the town’s relaxed, intimate charm.
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For budget-conscious travelers, Paje offers plenty of affordable yet comfortable options. Clean rooms, decent service, and a welcoming atmosphere are easy to find. However, breakfast at these budget lodgings left much to be desired. A typical morning spread consisted of a small omelet, a few slices of fruit, and a piece of bread—light and healthy, yes, but hardly satisfying for someone who believes in starting the day with a hearty meal.
The energy shifts the moment you step onto Paje Beach. The shoreline is lined with locals offering excursions—boat trips to nearby islands, snorkeling adventures, and kite surfing lessons. One phrase dominates every conversation: Hakuna Matata. The Swahili expression, meaning “no worries,” is more than a catchphrase; it’s a way of life here.
Every few meters, a group of muscular men strum guitars and sing “Hakuna Matata” in a rhythmic loop, beckoning tourists to join in. Seafood is abundant, and even vegetarians can easily find fully plant-based restaurants.
Less than an hour’s drive north of Paje, Nungwi Beach feels like a different world. Unlike Paje’s quiet charm, Nungwi pulses with activity. The white sand here is softer, the ocean a more vibrant shade of turquoise. Tourists outnumber locals, but the latter are ever-present, offering boat rides, snorkeling trips, and horseback excursions along the shore.
For those wanting to immerse themselves in Tanzania’s Afrobeat culture, the boat parties in Nungwi are unmissable. These traditional wooden boats, large enough to hold over 30 people, transform into floating dance floors. The energy is infectious—no one remains seated for long. As the waves rock the boat, passengers dance to the rhythm of drums and Swahili beats, lost in the moment.
No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a visit to Stone Town, the island’s historic heart. Here, narrow alleys weave through centuries-old buildings, their architecture a fascinating blend of European, Arab, and Persian influences. Though most buildings don’t rise above five stories, their intricate wooden balconies and ornate doors tell stories of a rich past.
Unlike Paje and Nungwi, Stone Town is home to more international hotel chains, from Golden Tulip to Best Western, catering to travelers seeking modern comforts amidst history. At the bustling harbor, large ships dock while others wait offshore, reinforcing the town’s long-standing role as a maritime hub.
Among Stone Town’s many historical sites, one stands out: Prison Island (Changuu Island).
Getting to Prison Island requires a short but nerve-wracking boat ride from Stone Town. On a good day, the journey takes about 20 minutes—but on a bad day, it feels like an eternity.
As I boarded the small wooden boat, I tried to ignore the uneasy feeling creeping over me. The sky was clear, the water a perfect shade of blue, yet the boat rocked aggressively with each passing wave. There were no life jackets in sight. The further we moved from shore, the more I questioned my decision.
The boat’s captain, unfazed by the turbulence, casually steered through the choppy water while chatting with his crew in Swahili. Meanwhile, I was silently preparing for the worst—mentally calculating how long I could stay afloat if the boat capsized. Every unexpected lurch made my heart skip a beat. By the time we approached the island, I was gripping the wooden seat so tightly my fingers ached.
When we finally docked, relief washed over me. I had survived. But the thought of the return trip loomed in the back of my mind. Once on solid ground, I could finally appreciate Prison Island’s significance.
Just 5.6 km northwest of Stone Town, Prison Island has a complex past. In the mid-19th century, it was used by Arab traders as a holding site for enslaved people. After the abolition of slavery in 1873, the British purchased the island, intending to build a prison, but it was never used for that purpose. Instead, it became a quarantine station for diseases like yellow fever.
Today, Prison Island is famous for its Aldabra giant tortoise sanctuary. Originally introduced as a gift from the Governor of Seychelles in the 18th century, these tortoises have thrived on the island. Some now weigh over 200 kilograms and can live for more than 200 years. Walking among these slow-moving, ancient creatures is a surreal experience—one that makes you feel as if time itself has slowed.
Zanzibar is more than just an island—it’s an experience. From the tranquil shores of Paje to the lively beats of Nungwi, from Stone Town’s historic streets to the timeless presence of Prison Island’s tortoises, every corner of Zanzibar tells a story. It is a place where cultures intertwine, history lingers, and the ocean breeze carries whispers of adventure.
As my journey came to an end, I realized that my initial hesitation had been misplaced. Zanzibar was worth every cent, every moment, and every memory. If you ever find yourself questioning whether to go, let me save you the trouble—just book the ticket. Hakuna Matata.
