“If someone misses their family reunion on Meskel Holiday, it’s a sign of serious trouble. In the previous times when communication was less accessible, families of those who missed a Meskel reunion might mourn, believing they had passed away,” says the tourism expert in Adigrat speaking of the unique celebration of MeskelFestivalin Agame and Irob areas of the Tigray Regional State.
Meskel Holiday is a Christian celebration commemorating the discovery of the True Cross, upon which Jesus Christ was crucified. It is observed by Oriental Orthodox Churches, such as the Ethiopian and Eritrean Orthodox Churches, as one of the minor feasts of Jesus Christ.
According to Church history, Queen Helena, mother of the then Emperor Constantine the Great, found the cross in the 4th century, approximately 300 years after its burial. September 26th is the commemoration of the discovery of the exact place of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
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Meskel Square in Addis Ababa, a square dedicated specifically to the celebration of the holiday with religious events, hosts a vibrant celebration on the eve of the feast. Hundreds of thousands of Ethiopians and tourists gather to witness the colorful bonfire ceremony, which is attended by government officials, including the head of state, and a massive congregation of clergy and laity.
The ceremony features various spiritual programs, including religious chants and hymns performed by clergy members and Sunday School students in full ceremonial attire around the bonfire.
The holiday celebration coincides with the end of the raining season and the beginning of the harvest time in Ethiopia. Celebrated on the 26th of September, it is a festival that coincides with the mass blooming of the golden yellow Meskel daisies named ‘Adey Abeba’.
Rooted in the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahido Church, Meskel Holiday also celebrates social aspects of Ethiopia’s rich heritage.
Since 2013, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) registered it as a world heritage. While the celebration varies across different regions, it holds significant social value in many areas, serving as a holiday of conflict resolution and reunion.
The Gurage community is renowned for its unique Meskel celebration, which extends beyond a single day and differs from celebrations in other parts of Ethiopia. The Gurage people begin their festivities some five days in advance.
While Meskel is particularly celebrated among Gurage communities for family reunions, it is also widely observed in other regions of Ethiopia. The celebrations in Adigrat and Irob, within the Tigray Regional State, are similarly significant. This edition of The Reporter Magazine explores the atmosphere of the Meskel celebration in Agame, a region near Adigrat.
Yemane Teklemariam, a tourism office coordinator in Adigrat, a town in eastern Tigray, notes that preparations for Meskel Holiday begin well in advance. People from all over Ethiopia and the world flock to the region for this special occasion. Many hotels are fully booked weeks before September 26th according to Yemane.
In this particular area, the overall vibe of the celebration usually starts from new Ethiopian new (the 11th of September). In accordance with local traditions, Meskel Holiday also celebrates the changing seasons, marking the transition from the dark, stormy winter to the bright, blooming spring.’People praise God the Almighty for this safe transition,’ explains Yemane.
The Meskel celebration in Agame features the Me’adiAgame,’ a traditional feast with deep religious significance. This culinary experience includes the renowned cousin of ‘Tihilo’.
The Me’adiAgame’ is not an ordinary meal. Nine individuals typically dine together at one table, a number associated with the religious story of ‘Tese’atuKidusan,’ the arrival of the nine saints in Ethiopia.
According to church literature, the flight of nine saints from the Byzantine Empire, including Syria, Cilicia, Cappadocia, and Rome, after the Council of Chalcedon, which the Oriental Churches rejected, played a crucial role in the expansion of Christianity in Ethiopia. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church honors these saints with special reverence.
Yemane explains that the Me’adiAgame’ is a meal without discrimination, where all participants, regardless of gender, age, or other factors, dine together in a spirit of love.
Another unique tradition in Agame involves honoring oxen and cows on Meskel. Unlike other days, these animals are not slaughtered on Meskel. While not officially confirmed by church history, local tradition holds that oxen and cows played a role in locating the exact place of the True Holy Cross.
In Agame, the Meskel celebration is unique not only for family reunions but also for its emphasis on reconciliation between those who were in conflict according to Yemane.Regional officials from Tigray and from the Ministry of Tourism usually spend the day there and deliver messages.
“During celebrating Meskel Holiday, People involved in disputes are expected to reconcile,” Yemane explains. “Those who respect tradition readily accept the guidance of arbitrators and the elderly.”
Among people who are currently deeply involved in serious disputes, TPLF leaders come at the forefront. No one seems to expect that they adhere to such traditions and resolve their disputes during Meskel though.
Yemane acknowledges that the recent war in the region negatively impacted tourism, but he also notes that local and international tourists are increasingly being attracted to the area.
Despite ongoing tensions between TPLF officials and reports of Eritrean soldier presence in the nearby area, Meskel is being celebrated peacefully in Agame this year according to Yemane. ‘The area remains calm, and everyone is here,’ Yemane begs to differ.
Following the devastating Northen War that erupted in 2020 and lasted for two years, Tigray has faced significant challenges in the tourism sector. One concern surrounding this year’s Meskel celebration in Agame is the potential presence of Eritrean soldiers in the nearby area of Zalambessa. However, Yemane assures that the specific area remains safe and that the atmosphere has significantly improved compared to recent years.
Hotel occupancy rates in Adigrat reached 100 percent during the Meskel celebration. Yemane Teklemariam, the culture and tourism coordinator of the area, said, “Major hotels were fully booked a month before the holiday.”
