Buttons have been in use either for decorative and symbolic or functional purposes since ancient times. Available writings on the origins of the making and use of buttons point to the Indus Valley civilization, 2000BC, followed by ancient Rome. They were primarily for decorative use and display of status or wealth.
Made of shells, the oldest buttons excavated from the Mahenjo-daro settlement, had tiny holes in them through which was fed thread. However, unlike buttons today, they were not put on clothing in straight lines, but in complex geometric patterns as part of their largely decorative use, Nancy Notions, an online library said in a write-up entitled: The Evolution of the Button.
So much about the origins; but a unique exhibition on display from July 13 – September 3 at the Yimtubezina Museum and Cultural Center on the premises of the lush Friendship Park brought to visitors the relatively brief history of buttons in Ethiopia as evidenced by an interesting array of collections of the items.
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Dubbed the “History of Buttons in Ethiopia: Its Order, Art and Fashion”, the exhibition showcased medals, badges, and buttons used at various times since the mid 19th century where buttons were introduced in the country. The Museum collaborated with the Ethiopian Heritage Authority to organize the exhibition.
Abel Assefa, Director and Curator of the Yimtubezina Museum and Cultural Center told the Reporter Magazine that the creation of modern governmental structures and the establishment of military units significantly influenced the production of a variety of buttons, including medals and badges.
Abel noted that the exhibition features nearly 3,000 buttons primarily from the Center’s founders’ family collection and from button enthusiasts including Birhanu Semu, the author of a book entitled “Buttons Design and Fashion in Ethiopia”, and Mihretu Wase, a teacher and a Collage artist.
Among the buttons on display include those featuring shields and swords, keys, wings, anchors, cannons engraved on them, symbolizing various aspects of the military, heroism and chivalry.
Among the collection, a button with the intricate designs of the Royal Crown (of the last Emperor Haile Selassie I), and another shows the emperor’s military rank, symbolized by a crown positioned above a cross. Another button has an engraving of the then famous “Harar Military Academy” and yet another shows a symbol depicting the military’s music orchestra (March/Brass Band). Other buttons have engravings of keys, symbolizing the rank and file as well as high-ranking officials.
Birhanu said, he has been salvaging the buttons from old clothes since 30 years ago (starting from 1994), as a way to generating income. He made several trips outside of the city of Addis Ababa, particularly to Hawassa and Shashemene to collect buttons. He also travelled abroad on the same mission.
He said that in spite of back breaking searches that he had launched, he could not get any historical record on the use and production of buttons before the reign of Emperor Menelik II. Introduction to Ethiopia of buttons came with the formation of a modern army structure.
Birhanu divided the history and usage of buttons in Ethiopia into five distinct phases, the first phase being a time that lasted until the 1950s beginning from Emperor Menelik’s reign.
“During this period, robes were adorned with fifteen to thirty small and large buttons extending from the neck to the knees, with a particular historical significance during and after the victory of Adwa,” he said, adding that the buttons used a century ago were most likely produced locally. “I have no material evidence to support this claim, but my assumption based on an educated guess is that they indeed might have been produced locally considering the historical context and the messages engraved on them.”
The organization of the modern army in the 1950s marked the second phase, heavily influenced by international button designs, symbols and patterns.
The third phase began around the mid-1970s during the Derg era, when buttons featured various international figures, symbols and logos. The fourth phase corresponds to the EPRDF era, while the fifth includes the current administration, which integrates the Naval Force into the military history of buttons in Ethiopia on the force’s badge.
“For well over a century, various symbols, designs, patterns were used on buttons or logos as religious representation, conveying spiritual messages,” Birhanu said, adding the rise of privately owned button factories came very late in Ethiopia, with such industries as Belayneh Beka and Li Button factories.
The other contributor to the exhibition is the 34-year-old Mihretu Wase who presented his button displays in the form of Collage art.
“Buttons draw my attention to their colors, patterns, designs and overall beauties, revealing also the rich stories behind the making of each type,” he said.
The most types of button are fabric buttons, flat buttons, metal buttons, toggles, plastic buttons, shank buttons, snap buttons…the list is many. There are at least 30 types of buttons commonly used in today’s world of fashion.
Looked at as tiny sculptures with varied patterns and colors, buttons can be considered a work of art. Since buttons are typically associated with clothing, their role in honorific attire, fashion, culture and historical significance is also undeniable.
Abel Assefa of the Yimtubezina Museum and Cultural Center noted that the establishment of an ammunitions factory, which commenced operations on May 5, 1953, advanced the production of buttons in Ethiopia.
“During the reign of Haileselassie I, buttons featuring the image of the King and the Lion of Judah image were used. Later, during the Derg era, these were replaced by the hammer and sickle….”
Buttons come with a wide array of sizes, shapes and colors as well as thickness. They can be made out of horn, wood, metal, gold, silver, bronze, pearls, shells, precious stones and plastics, he noted.
According to Abel, imported buttons were first arrived in Ethiopia from London, England. Later, as appointed by Emperor Haileselassie I, an Armenian from the Sevandjian family was commissioned by the Emperor to produce medals, badges, buttons, and military uniforms for the Ethiopian army beginning the year 1953, a year that he said, could be taken as the start of production of modern buttons in Ethiopia.
