Our exploration of Ethiopia’s Afar region began at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport with a group of six travelers with little idea of what wonders that lie ahead. Upon arrival in Semera, our expert local guide welcomed us to the Kurifu Hotel for a nourishing breakfast before the adventure began.
A young but seasoned tour operator, Fana Tesfaye, captivated us with tales of the area’s beauty and history during an informative briefing. A medical school graduate of Haydar Referral Hospital, Fana’s passion led her to additional training as a tour operator—a role she has excelled in for eight rewarding years.
After four hours on the road, we reached our first destination—the village of Afdera. Contrary to expectations, the searing heat associated with Afar was surprisingly tempered. October through February offer the most comfortable climate, while July to September bring intense heat. Along the way, Fana painted a vivid picture of the region’s geological and cultural uniqueness.
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Home to the “Afar Triangle,” one of Earth’s most unforgiving locales containing the perilously hot Danakil Depression, the area is also renowned for multi-generational salt mining by the indigenous Afar people along its vast plains.
Upon arriving in Afdera, we were warmly greeted by locals who welcomed us with a traditional lunch and coffee. We then continued our drive to HamedEla, located within the geologically fascinating Danakil Depression region of the Afar Triangle.
This triple junction where the African, Arabian, and Somali tectonic plates meet has yielded a unique desert landscape defined by volcanic activity, hot springs and geysers.
HamedEla became our overnight stop, renowned for breathtaking sunsets and unobstructed views of the night sky ideal for stargazing.
Camping beneath a canopy of millions of twinkling stars proved one of the trip’s most magical experiences. As darkness fell, the sky transforming into a display of lights, with shooting stars streaking across the inky blackness. A cool breeze gently rustled our blankets, creating a serene atmosphere difficult to match anywhere else.
Fana further enhanced the memory, hosting a wine-fuelled sunset viewing session. Over drinks, she discussed her role within the tour company ETT, undertaking responsibilities from initial email correspondence to airport greetings and logistics coordination and community liaison, all while ensuring guests’ safety and well-being –an undoubtedly challenging work in such a setting.
As we chatted, warm hues of orange and pink painted the sky in a dazzling display, providing the perfect backdrop for a relaxing end to an unforgettable day in this one-of-a-kind landscape.
In HamedEla, sleeping under a blanket of stars is more than just a memorable activity – it offers a chance for spiritual connection to nature. Camping beneath the starry sky offers visitors a chance to pause from daily distractions and appreciate the natural surroundings in its untamed, natural form. Gazing upon the celestial canopy inspires peace and solace, as darkness embraces visitors in tranquil silence.
The next morning, waking at 4am to the chief preparing eggs, we eagerly drove 20 minutes further into the Danakil Depression. In the pre-dawn stillness, a faint pink glow on the horizon heralded the sun’s arrival.
In still, cool air, the ancient lake – once part of the Red Sea eons ago – revealed its otherworldly terrain. Underfoot, the salty ground cracked and crunched with every step across the lifeless expanse. Like a scene from science fiction movie, formations resembling small mounds and geological structures dotted the otherwise flat, white expanse stretching as far as the eye could see.
Witnessing this surreal pre-historic landscape bathed in early morning light proved a highlight. The ephemeral beauty of the setting underscored nature’s enduring impact on the region across eons.
As the sun slowly rose, its rays painted the sky in an array of soft pinks, oranges, fiery reds and purple hue. The light danced across the salty flats, creating a dazzling play of reflections and shadows. What was once a stark, desolate landscape was transformed into a magical, ethereal spectacle as golden sunlight bathed the entire scene.
The vibrant colors soon faded with the rising sun, as the harsh realities of a barren region returns.
From there, we drove to the Dallol Depression, located 125 meters below sea level—the lowest point on land. True to its Afar name meaning “colorful stones,” the area’s sulfur lake presented a mesmerizing sight with its bright yellow and green hues contrasting the surrounding salt formations, fed by hot springs carrying sulfur, iron oxide and minerals.
Despite temperatures reaching upwards of 120 degrees Fahrenheit, Dallol has become popular among adventurers and photographers seeking to capture its surreal, vibrantly shifting landscapes created by ongoing geothermal activity. No two visits are ever the same in this constantly evolving terrain. The extremes of nature on full display left lasting impressions of natural forces’ awe-inspiring yet unpredictable might.
Dallol offers a uniquely alien landscape, with its atypical terrain, hot temperatures and vivid sulfur lake illustrating nature’s diverse forces at play below Earth’s surface.
Our journey continued to the “salt mountains” – a large salt deposit rising from the ground like a mountain of crystallized minerals formed over millions of years. Nearby is a healing phosphorus lake reputed to cure skin ailments, followed by relaxing swims in the miniature yet serene Dead Sea-like pond.Though small in size, the pond resembles the famous Dead Sea in Israel with its high saline concentration, producing buoyant waters where sinking is impossible. Visitors are able to effortlessly float and unwind in the restorative, mineral-rich environment.
After a meal prepared locally, we traveled to Ertale volcano. From its rim overlooking the active lava lake below provides a compelling perspective of geological activity still reshaping this region.
Throughout Afar, noteworthy natural features revealed much about the immense and varied powers shaping this landscape over extended periods. Collectively these sites afford memorable insights into the vital environmental factors transforming Earth across immense timescales yet acutely visible here.
At Ertale volcano, the raw geological power on display is profound.
Fana hopes for enhanced infrastructure to improve tourist access and experience in this remote region. She says tourist numbers there had declined from conflicts, though the 2-hour route from Mekelle versus 8-hour route from Semera were also cited as factors.
Our time in Afar drew to a close after swimming among the mineral waters and hot springs near Afdera village. From there, we boarded a flight departing Semera for Addis Ababa, heads filled with revelations from this remote region’s evocative landscapes.
Across diverse landscapes shaped by eons of geological transformation, insights were gained into environmental and cultural aspects of this distinct part of Ethiopia. We departed with appreciation for the opportunities provided to learn from and experience this unique destination.
