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Smoldering passage to the fiery realm

Among shifting plates, a cauldron of molten stone calls explorers near

Abraham TeklebyAbraham Tekle
March 4, 2024
Smoldering passage to the fiery realm
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Tucked away in one of the planet’s most desolate corners lies a volcanic marvel that provides a viscerally thrilling window into our world’s underlying forces of fire and molten stone. Towering above the seemingly endless plains of Ethiopia’s desolate Danakil Depression stands a natural wonder – Erta Ale Volcano, known locally as the “Smoking Mountain.”

Reaching Erta Ale demands crossing an otherworldly volcanic desert, where temperatures routinely top 40 degree Celsius or 104 degrees Fahrenheit.

Home to one of Earth’s rare attractions, an active lava lake that has burned continuously for over 60 years, this remote peak invites intrepid explorers to witness nature’s raw yet sublime power up close. Nestled deep within Erta Ale’s enormous caldera is a bubbling cauldron of molten rock, its fiery orange and red hues lighting the night sky with a magical glow.

As one of only six constantly active lava lakes on the planet, it offers geologists a front-row seat to understand the mechanics of our living planet. Surrounding the caldera, vivid mineral deposits and steaming fumaroles paint stunning yet alien vistas across the sun-scorched terrain.

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Reaching Erta Ale demands crossing an otherworldly volcanic desert, where temperatures routinely top 40 degree Celsius or 104 degrees Fahrenheit. Yet beyond the withering heat lies a dramatic geological spectacle and cultural discovery awaiting those persistent enough to make the demanding trek. The landscape transforms at dusk as the lava lake illuminates the rugged slopes in a mesmerizing display of light and shadows.

Home to the indigenous Afar people for millennia, the Danakil offers rare insights into how humans have adapted to such an unforgiving environment. Between spotting camels and meeting local artisans, visitors gain newfound respect for the resilient communities that call this Depression home.

Further enriching the region’s appeal is its status as the birthplace of “Lucy,” the iconic 3.2 million year old hominid fossil uncovered here in 1974.

For travelers seeking true adventure off the beaten path, few destinations can rival Erta Ale for its raw natural drama and cultural revelations. Situated atop three shifting tectonic plates, the region boasts a surreal terrain adorned with unique rock formations, springs, and geysers putting on a spectacular show– set against a backdrop that feels lightyears from the modern world.

Robel Petros has been leading tours for over a decade. According to the experienced guide, who has led wide-eyed travelers through Ethiopia’s remote landscape, the active Erta Ale volcano offers a one-of-a-kind encounter with the planet’s restless interior.

At just 613 meters high, Erta Ale is considered a relatively low-elevation volcano, despite its setting atop an elevated plain. What sets it apart, however, is its single or occasionally dual active lava lakes, which periodically overflow on the volcano’s southern flank.

Reaching Erta Ale is no simple feat, Robel warns, but the trek promises an unforgettably exhilarating adventure. The three to four hour journey traverses centuries-old lava flows that remain viscously active.

Due to the depression’s intense heat, ascents are best undertaken in the evening twilight and descents at dawn.

Nowhere else on Earth can one witness volcanic forces in such a raw and breathtaking display. It is probably the most accessible view of its kind globally.

“Erta Ale is truly incomparable,” Robel remarked. “Nowhere else on Earth can one witness volcanic forces in such a raw and breathtaking display. It is probably the most accessible view of its kind globally.”

As a seasoned guide, Robel recognizes Erta Ale as the region’s prime highlight. However, the Danakil harbors many other captivating geographic features along East Africa’s Great Rift Valley, which spans Ethiopia and Eritrea. According to records, the depression straddles where three tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart, giving rise to multiple active volcanoes along the rift zone. Chief among these is Erta Ale, renowned as Ethiopia’s most persistently active basaltic shield volcano, with its latest eruption in 2017.

Notably, Erta Ale hosts one of only three long-lasting lava lakes worldwide. There, magma remains molten within the crater thanks to convection currents in the underlying system. This creates a visually arresting scene – an undulating charcoal crust punctuated by vibrant red fissures of liquid fire.

Lava periodically erupts and spreads in fiery bursts while the crater’s unobstructed rim provides viewers a direct portal into the volcanic abyss below: referred to locally as the “gateway to hell.”

Reaching this alone makes the trek worthwhile, but explorers are also rewarded with the region’s aesthetically jarring formations that seem sprung from a distant planet rather than our own. Towering spikes of salt and multi-hued deposits punctuate the landscape. Here, visitors truly feel removed from the ordinary world as the clouds themselves appear to descend from the heavens.

Hawa Ali Abubaker of the Afar Regional State Tourism Bureau highlighted Erta Ale’s status as a perpetually “never-sleeping” wonder. She underscored the allure of both the volcano and surrounding Dallol area, labelling it a national treasure and a vital asset of the regional state. Hawa noted the region’s unique natural marvels continually captivate visitors, situated within one of the lowest places on Earth over 125 meters below sea level.

Hawa strongly encourages both domestic and international travelers to experience the cultural and natural treasures of the Afar region. She describes it as a “peaceful sanctuary” offering a “once-in-a-lifetime opportunity” to immerse oneself in unmatched scenery and history.

For the past few years however, the stunning landscapes and cultural treasures of Ethiopia’s northern Afar Region laid dormant, waiting for the world to rediscover its hidden riches.

During the turbulent years of conflict in neighboring Tigray, security issues kept Afar’s treasures tucked away.

The conflict between the federal government and the Tigray People’s Liberation Front (TPLF) hampered the progress that had been made developing tourism in the region. With battles waged near and within its borders, the Afar Region suffered as security concerns kept visitors away.

However, with a new era of peace now prevailing, intrepid travelers are flocking to this remote frontier to unearth adventure among its rugged splendors, as travelers once more feel safe exploring Afar’s abundant natural and cultural treasures.

And return they have. Tourist arrivals jumped last year following the easing of restrictions, breathing new life into the local economy.

Hawa cites peace and the improved security situation fueling this resurgence.

“Peace and security are the cornerstones of the tourism industry,” Hawa said. “Recognizing this as an advantage, our region is diligently focused on promoting our traditional sites to both local and international tourists through various platforms, with Afar diaspora playing a prominent role in leading these efforts.”

The Ethiopian government has prioritized tourism as one of the country’s five key economic sectors. According to the Ministry of Tourism’s 2023/2024 fiscal year report, international tourist arrivals exceeded one million, generating USD 3.63 billion in direct foreign exchange earnings. Chief among the draws:Erta Ale, which is enjoying greater stability relative to other regions.

The Afar Region Communication Bureau has also implemented measures to facilitate travel. Samara airport now has two or more direct flights weekly from the capital Addis Ababa. Infrastructure investments also aim to enhance visitors’ experience, with new tourist lodges under construction. “Safety and comfort are top priorities from the moment tourists arrive,” notes Hawa.

Furthermore, Ahmed Abdulkeder Mohammed, Head of Afar Culture and Tourism Bureau, highlighted that while approximately 1433 tourists arrived in Semera the previous year, in just six months of 2024, nearly 2000 foreign tourists have already ventured into Afar. According to him, the region has generated a total of 81,535,200 million Birr from entrance fees and tourist accommodation services.

Few sites rival Erta Ale volcano for raw natural majesty. Its fiery core and rugged terrain ignite imagination on the boundary where earth meets sky. With returning stability, Afar hopes tourism will thrive so more can appreciate its geological and cultural marvels as visitors immerse themselves in this enigmatic landmark’s timeless allures, experiencing Ethiopia’s most iconic wonders up close and immersing in the volcanic terrain’s untamed beauty.

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Abraham Tekle

Abraham Tekle

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