Deeply rooted in ancient Christian traditions, the dazzling celebrations of Christmas and Epiphany in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church have long been known for drawing both devoted Christians and curious travelers to Lalibela and Gondar, respectively.
These colorful holiday celebrations, honoring the Nativity and Baptism of Jesus Christ, respectively- two of the three most significant events in the theological approach to Orthodox Christianity, are sacred to believers.
They also represent an important source of income for the hospitality industry and the transportation sector – a testament to the ties between spiritual blessings and economic benefits during the holiday season.
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The impact has been rippling through the lives and operations of various stakeholders ranging from individual tourist guides to service providers in the transport and hospitality industries.
Yet, in recent years, these once joyous festivals have been overshadowed by a persistent conflict. The impact has been rippling through the lives and operations of various stakeholders ranging from individual tourist guides to service providers in the transport and hospitality industries.
The nation’s 10-year prospective development plan, which went into effect in 2021, aims to bring in seven million tourists annually and produce ten billion US dollars. Nevertheless, as peace is the tourist sector’s lifeblood, it becomes the final piece needed to complete Ethiopia’s tourism crown. Many people have doubts regarding the nation’s strategy to meet its goal by 2030.
Prior to the Northern Ethiopian War and the COVID pandemic, Ethiopia enjoyed a thriving tourism sector. In 2019, over 800,000 tourists flocked to the country, generating $3.5 billion in revenue. This momentum, however, was abruptly halted in 2020, with tourist arrivals plummeting to 500,000 and spending declining by 35 percent to USD 2.28 billion. The ongoing conflict further compounded the challenges, pushing the number of visitors down to 518,000 in 2021, ranking Ethiopia 67th globally in absolute terms, sources indicated.
Located in Ethiopia’s majestic highlands, Lalibela and Gondar are two among the country’s many tourist destinations. They offer unique riches for anyone looking for adventure and cultural immersion. While both are very valuable to visitors, there are distinct factors that contribute to their attraction.
Nestled in the Lasta Mountains of northern Ethiopia, Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its eleven monolithic rock-hewn churches. Carved from the living rock over 900 years ago, these architectural marvels are considered testaments to the faith and ingenuity of medieval Ethiopians. Each church boasts unique symbolism and intricate craftsmanship, attracting Christian pilgrims from across the globe.
Lalibela, Ethiopia’s holy city carved into volcanic rock, typically echoes with the hymns of millions during Christmas. This year, however, the silence was deafening. The conflict between Amhara Fano and federal forces cast a long shadow, stifling the usual festive hum and crippling the town’s lifeblood—tourism.
Though the initial clashes ignited following the disarmament of regional Special Forces in early April 2023 between federal troops, Amhara regional forces, and the Fano militia, protests also broke out across the region, with civilians expressing anger and frustration at the government’s actions. The federal government declared a state of emergency in the region beginning on August 4, 2023. Since then, the situation has become unpredictable with rampant conflict.
The festive scene itself reflected the diminished turnout. The VIP area, usually teeming with foreign visitors, was sparsely occupied with barely a dozen tourists.
Dessew Woday, a veteran tour guide with over 15 years of experience, paints a stark picture.
“Every year, we see buses, several daily flights transporting pilgrims and tourists, and even commuters [making their way] to the holy city via horses and mules,” he explains, “but this year, with roadblocks and fear, anticipated cross-country buses vanished. Pilgrims from Addis Ababa and elsewhere stayed away.”
Lalibela’s 75,000 residents depend on tourism. Over 1,000 priests, tour guides, hotel owners, souvenir and gift shops, boutique tourist hotels, and transport providers rely on the annual influx of over 1,000 foreign tourists and millions of local pilgrims. This year, foreign arrivals dipped below 100, and local pilgrims barely reached half a million, mostly venturing from nearby areas on foot or by mule.
The absence of the usual over 500 chartered buses and hundreds of contracted minibus taxis transporting people from all over Ethiopia was stark. Even Ethiopian Airlines flights quadrupled in price, pushing many to seek alternatives, mostly skipping this year’s festival, said Dessew.
Adding to the chilling silence was the absence of high-profile visitors. No ministers, ambassadors, or regional officials graced the festivities, unlike in previous years.
“It’s a clear message of fear and lack of trust,” Dessew says, “despite official pronouncements of peace that have prevailed.”
During the height of the fighting in 2021 between federal troops and Tigray People’s Liberation Front (TPLF) forces, Lalibela briefly fell under the control of Tigrayan forces a handful of times. Though the town was recaptured by federal troops, the experience instilled fear and uncertainty among residents.
Lalibela’s lifeblood is tourism. Yet, the conflict has painted a picture of instability, deterring both domestic and international visitors. Hotels stand empty, tour guides face unemployment, and the vibrant market atmosphere struggles to recapture its past glory.
A civil servant in the Lalibela city administration, hesitant to speak openly for fear of reprisal, confided to The Reporter: “I heard official letters were sent to the federal and regional authorities, inviting them to attend this year’s Christmas festivities and instill optimism both locally and internationally. However, their absence on Christmas Day was deeply disappointing. Surprisingly, despite the presence of numerous media outlets, the state broadcaster, Ethiopian Broadcasting Corporation, was absent. This is shameful for a national television station that routinely live-streams minor inaugurations and local festivals.”
The conflicts in and around the region have burdened residents like him, who long to see a resolution to their enduring hardship.
“My meager monthly salary barely suffices, so I supplement it by moonlighting as a tour guide for locals and foreigners, thanks to my connections in Addis and Bahir Dar,” he said.
But income from the side gig has dried up, and the specter of salary cuts already implemented on civil servants in other Ethiopian regions looms ever larger over his life.
As Dessew put it: life in Lalibela hangs in the balance. Hotels that were once overflowing now stand desolate, with some owners driven out of business or trying their luck in other ventures. Tour guides, mule operators, and restaurant owners sit idle, their livelihoods vanishing with the tourists.
Yet, Dessew and the residents of the city cling to hope.
“We remember years when hotels couldn’t even accommodate everyone,” he says. “But now, some are closed, guarded by ghosts of happier times.”
They yearn for the day when the festive crowds return, when foreign tongues mingle with hymns, and life resumes its joyous rhythm.
Until then, Lalibela waits, its ancient rock-hewn churches bearing witness to a silent Christmas, etched not only in memory but also in the struggling hearts of its people.
Likewise, Gondar, once the imperial capital of Ethiopia, comes alive during Timket, the Ethiopian Orthodox celebration of Epiphany. This vibrant festival, marked by colorful processions, blessings of the faithful in bodies of water, and lively feasting, draws thousands of domestic and international tourists each year.
However, the ongoing conflict in the region, together with the remnants of the trauma of the recent war in the northern part of the country, has cast a dark shadow over these celebrations. The recent fighting has disrupted travel routes, making pilgrimages to Lalibela and Gondar dangerous and unpredictable. Many international tour operators have suspended their Ethiopian itineraries due to safety concerns, while local travel has also been significantly curtailed.
The Gondar City communications head, Abebe Lakew, told The Reporter the Timket celebrations went well, with the city colorfully decorated for the holiday.
Many local and international tourists arrived in the city, and the public mood for the celebration was very positive, according to Abebe.
Preparations for the peaceful celebration were made in advance, and communities from different parts of the country arrived some days prior to the holiday, and despite some pessimistic views about the festival being affected by conflict, things were going as planned, he said.
Yonas Yitbarek, head of the Gondar Culture and Tourism Bureau, told The Reporter that plenty of tourists visited the city for the celebrations.
“The public turnout was as incredible as it was before, and I observed a calm and joyful Epiphany, and I doubt some people’s talk of the ongoing conflict affected the public’s confidence in celebrating it as usual,” he said
Tour guide Girum Wale, who typically navigates the bustling tourist scene during this period, disagrees.
He told The Reporter he witnessed stark differences in this year’s celebrations, which he says concluded peacefully but fell short of their usual vibrancy.
“The diaspora community, foreign tourists, and many Ethiopians—they were virtually absent,” Wale lamented. “The festive atmosphere was subdued, and the usual throngs of visitors were replaced by a hollow emptiness.”
For Girum, this stark decline in tourism is attributable to security concerns exhibited in the region in tandem with the concerns raised by embassies in Addis Ababa. Despite plans made months in advance, tourists were hesitant to travel due to perceived risks. While diplomatic concerns are valid, Wale contends that the reality on the ground in Gonder paints a different picture. Since the eruption of the conflict in Amhara, diplomatic missions have been flagging security concerns and issuing travel advice for their respective citizens.
During peaceful times, says Girum, “Hundreds, even thousands, of tourists flock to Gonder for Epiphany every year. Even without adequate hotel facilities, they gladly camp out. But this year, even the hotels stood empty, a testament to the chilling effect of security fears.”
He further emphasized the need to address these concerns.
“When tourists speak, their number one priority is safety. This must be addressed to invigorate the tourism industry,” said Girum.
The festive scene itself reflected the diminished turnout. The VIP area, usually teeming with foreign visitors, was sparsely occupied with barely a dozen tourists.
Girum observes there were no more than 120 tourists present for the celebrations this year.
Now most tour guide professionals end up with tourists from Addis Ababa coming for the celebration and visiting Gondar City.
“This is something we usually leave for unlicensed tour guides since the payment is very minimal and requires little to no skills to guide local tourists,” he said, adding that if the whole situation of the tourism industry continues this way and tourist inflow declines, he and his tour guide fellows might have to change careers to feed their families.
The impact of security concerns extends beyond tourism. Since the 2020 COVID pandemic, together with the previous northern Ethiopian conflict and the current conflict in the Amhara region, many tour guides are facing hardship. Some, unable to sustain themselves, have returned to their families.
The festival’s diminished scale also highlights wider social and economic ramifications. Public transport is hampered, hindering movement and commodity distribution. Even gasoline is scarce in Gonder, as drivers fear the unsafe journey from Addis Ababa.
The shadow of security concerns has cast a long shadow over Epiphany in Gonder. Addressing these concerns is crucial not only for reviving tourism but also for restoring public confidence and economic stability in the region.
The decline in pilgrims and tourists has had a devastating impact on the livelihoods of local communities in Lalibela and Gondar. Many residents rely on income from tourism to support their families, and the drop in visitors has led to widespread economic hardship. Hotels and restaurants stand empty, while souvenir stalls gather dust.
The conflict in Ethiopia has undoubtedly taken a toll on the country’s cultural and religious life. However, the spirit of hope and resilience remains strong among the Ethiopian people. If peace prevails, the faithful hope to once again flock to Lalibela and Gondar to celebrate their cherished religious holidays. The return of pilgrims would not only revive the local economies but also serve as a powerful symbol of Ethiopia’s resilience and enduring spirit.
